Jolene Blalock about Amazing : Surfing is such an amazing concept. You'

Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.

It has taken me years of struggle hard work and research to learn to make one simple gesture and I know enough about the art of writing to realize that it would take as many years of concentrated effort to write one simple beautiful sentence.

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