The moment my doctor told me I went silent. My mum and dad were with me then we all went to pieces. I was saying No I've got my flight to Sydney in two hours. I'm getting on a plane.

moment doctor silent pieces saying flight sydney hours getting plane

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Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.

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